Since New Orleans is the northernmost city of the Caribbean, who better to speak with about Rum Old Fashioneds than Abigail Gullo of Compère Lapin? Even in The Big Easy, a town known for great bartenders, Abigail stands at the top, having been awarded Eater NOLA’s “Bartender of the Year” award a few years ago. Before NOLA, Abigail worked in various New York notables like Fort Defiance and The Beagle before heading south to take up the head bar chef post at SoBou. Abigail took some time to chat with us about the Old Fashioned, both classic and contemporary.
What makes the Old Fashioned a great cocktail? What are the most important elements?
The Old Fashioned is the original cocktail. The cocktail was a category of drinks that were defined as bitters, sugar, spirit and water. And, indeed, the Old Fashioned is just that in its core elements. However, there is room for great variety and play. What spirit? What sugar? What bitters? Even the “water” element can come in many forms. Are use using crushed ice like a Wisconsin Old Fashioned, or just one big block? I have one that uses a frozen cube of coconut water! The only important elements, I think, are keeping that original formula alive; bitters, sugar, spirit and water.
Why is it so challenging to make a great Old Fashioned, even though it’s with a simple ingredients?
When you are using simple ingredients, its all the more important that the balance and the quality of the ingredients are of precise and high standards. Its very easy to send the balance out of whack..
Why does rhum agricole work so well in the Old Fashioned?
Rhum Agricole works in an old fashioned because it is a very high quality spirit made with pride and care. A good Old Fashioned is going to let the spirit shine through…so it better be an exceptional spirit. Rhum agricole is exceptional in every way.
How do you feel about muddled fruit in the drink?
I understand the history and the preference for a “fruit salad” type of Old Fashioned, but its not really my thing. I am usually using too high a quality of spirit to have its flavor be masked by a lot of additional sugar. But that is my personal preference. I certainly would never begrudge someone who wants an Old Fashioned that style no matter what spirit they use. Maybe its the way their grandma used to make one or a holiday family traditions. To each his own!
Do you have a favorite variation on the Rhum Old Fashioned?
My La Sirena (Italian for Mermaid) pulls its bitterness from a chamomile grappa from Italy and some sugar from Clément Mahina Coco coconut liqueur. The water component is actually a frozen cube of coconut water. So, as the cube melts, the drink actually transform into a high ball cocktail. Transformation indeed!
La Sirena
Ingredients
2 ounces Clément Rhum Barrel select
¼ ounce Marolo chamomile grappa
¼ ounce Clément Mahina Coco
dash of cane syrup
Directions
Stir in a mixing glass over ice and strain into an Old Fashioned glass with a large cube of frozen coconut water. Garnish with a lime disk just like a Ti Punch.
